In the concrete rubble on Kanokupolu beach, Tonga, leaves have begun forming a cover, green and glossy amid the dull grays of the detritus in the sand. A year after the eruption of Hunga Tonga–Hunga Ha’apai—a volcanic blast bigger than Krakatoa that caused a spike in global warming, reshaped the ocean floor, and wiped out two of the archipelago’s smaller islands—the devastation it wrought is still visible, along with the wreckage of vacation resorts that once stood here, a repair job that is yet to begin.